Sometimes it takes leaving a place to gain some perspective on it. Tel Aviv is fine. Yet, after visiting Haifa today I understand why people here like to complain of the lack of a sea breeze and natural beauty.
Our day trip Haifa high-lighted what a homogenous city Tel Aviv is. Haifa has a fairly large Arab-Israeli population, alongside the Jewish one. There also seems to be more religious variety within ethnic groups and religions in Haifa, judging from my very hasty observation. In Tel Aviv I haven’t seen many religious Jews and even fewer Muslims. In Haifa there were quite a few women in hijab, as well as Carmelite nuns and visible signs of Christian Arab religion. In all I found it somewhat easier to breathe in Haifa.
Also, insane amount of soliders on the train to and from Haifa. I suppose that is just the way things are in this country. I have to say, I am too much of a softy European/ New Yorker to be at ease when there is an Uzi in the seat next to mine.
We could see Lebanon from Mt. Carmel. I wonder how long it would take to go from Tel Aviv to Beirut by train if such a thing was possible. (It isn’t.) Two hours? One, on a high-speed train? That would be neat.
Remains of our Lunch in Wadi Nisnas
The owner; photo taken on the sly.
Quite possibly the best coffee I’ve had in my life. And I know from coffee.
We wen’t to the top.
And looked down.
That’s Lebanon in the far background.
More photos on my Flickr page.
4 responses so far ↓
Edmund // June 24, 2008 at 10:19 pm
isn’t that the Baha’i temple? I remember going there almost nine years ago.
sarahwanders08 // June 24, 2008 at 10:29 pm
Indeed it is the Bahai temple. We didn’t get to actually go in, since we hadn’t booked in advance. But it was pretty from the outside too.
Hephzibah // June 26, 2008 at 9:47 pm
I absolutely have to comment on the beautiful city I lived in for 9 years! I lived on the top of the mountain (the ridge is several kilometers long) and enjoyed the beauty, the quiet, the sea breezes, the views – and the heterogeneity – all those years. I guess you can see certain similarities to Stockholm with the view and all, it hadn’t really struck me before. I can’t help wondering if the restaurant isn’t closer to the port, i.e., not exactly in Wadi Nisnas? There were often late night visits to that restaurant, their Siniyeh was divine, among other dishes. I am reading Zimler’s Search for Sana, he describes Wadi Nisnas in the 40s, perhaps you’ve read it? So far highly worthwhile.
Hephzibah
sarahwanders08 // June 26, 2008 at 10:02 pm
Hephzibah:
I thought of you when we were in Haifa. It was a lovely place.
Not sure if the restaurant was truly Wadi Nisnas, it may have been on the edge. It was in the area on our map sloppily circled by the tourism office clerk as Wadi Nisnas. The food was delicious though.